Warren Baird wjbaird at
Mon Jun 1 17:46:07 CEST 2009

Hmm..   You say that the buzz rework is only required by people who have the
buzz problem.    How do we tell the difference between the buzz problem and
a badly tuned gsmhandset.state?

My situation is that when I talk to people on the FR I generally hear them
very clearly, but they get a lot of static on their side - is that the buzz
problem?  Or is that something I can fix by tweaking the gsmhandset.state

I'm using OM2009 TR4 btw - switching from the default alsa state file to seemed to help
the static, but it's still pretty bad...


On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 8:03 AM, Dr. H. Nikolaus Schaller
<hns at>wrote:

> Am 01.06.2009 um 13:16 schrieb Paul Fertser:
> > "Dr. H. Nikolaus Schaller" <hns at> writes:
> >>> and standby time jumping up 25% looks a lot to me.
> >>
> >> If you find a way to DIY to gain these 25%, please share with us.
> >
> > In fact overall time required for hand rework is roughly equal for
> > both buzz and #1024 fixes. If one has already dismounted the can
> The key difference is the word "if already dismounted the can".
> >
> > (quite easy if one is careful) then changing that particular capacitor
> > is not a problem at all for a skilled person, it's SMT0805 size, big
> > enough comparing to 0402 R and it's very conveniently located.
> >
> > This is for purely informational purposes for DIY-ers, i'm not
> > recommending any distributors to offer this rework, quite the
> > opposite.
> Thanks for this description which will help DIY-ers!
> Our reworker just opens the two torx screws, unclips the front cover
> and then does the Buzz-Rework under a microscope. Then, the front
> cover is clipped back and torx screws are replaced. This keeps rework
> cost low even in a high-wage country like Germany (which is still more
> than the 3 EUR we formally charge - Openmoko is sponsoring the rework).
> For opening the GSM shield you have to dismantle the whole PCB from
> the Freerunner plastics and then open the can. Doing the reverse
> direction means to put the power and aux buttons in place, make sure
> that the vibramotor and speaker give contact etc.  and everything
> snaps back. This all sums to approx. 4 times as many minutes. That is
> the time that adds up in our calculation. So if we find a way to apply
> it without opening the can and dismantling the PCB, it will be the
> same speed.
> So it is the simplicity of the buzz-rework that made us start this
> adventure but more complex reworks are beyond our limits...
> Aother note to all who read this: the Buzz rework is only required if
> you have the Buzz problem. If your device does not, there is no need
> to rework. My personal estimate is that <5% of users have experienced
> it.
> And if you don't own a Freerunner yet, you don't necessarily have to
> wait for A7 devices. So purchasing an A6 is still a good bet.
> Nikolaus
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> community at

Warren Baird - Photographer and Digital Artist
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