Hmm.. You say that the buzz rework is only required by people who have the buzz problem. How do we tell the difference between the buzz problem and a badly tuned gsmhandset.state? <br><br>My situation is that when I talk to people on the FR I generally hear them very clearly, but they get a lot of static on their side - is that the buzz problem? Or is that something I can fix by tweaking the gsmhandset.state file?<br>
<br>I'm using OM2009 TR4 btw - switching from the default alsa state file to <a href="http://www.kurppa.fi/freerunner/config_files/gsmhandset.state">http://www.kurppa.fi/freerunner/config_files/gsmhandset.state</a> seemed to help the static, but it's still pretty bad...<br>
<br>Warren<br><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 8:03 AM, Dr. H. Nikolaus Schaller <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:hns@computer.org">hns@computer.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;">
<br>
Am 01.06.2009 um 13:16 schrieb Paul Fertser:<br>
<div class="im"><br>
> "Dr. H. Nikolaus Schaller" <<a href="mailto:hns@computer.org">hns@computer.org</a>> writes:<br>
>>> and standby time jumping up 25% looks a lot to me.<br>
>><br>
>> If you find a way to DIY to gain these 25%, please share with us.<br>
><br>
> In fact overall time required for hand rework is roughly equal for<br>
> both buzz and #1024 fixes. If one has already dismounted the can<br>
<br>
</div>The key difference is the word "if already dismounted the can".<br>
<div class="im"><br>
><br>
> (quite easy if one is careful) then changing that particular capacitor<br>
> is not a problem at all for a skilled person, it's SMT0805 size, big<br>
> enough comparing to 0402 R and it's very conveniently located.<br>
><br>
> This is for purely informational purposes for DIY-ers, i'm not<br>
> recommending any distributors to offer this rework, quite the<br>
> opposite.<br>
<br>
</div>Thanks for this description which will help DIY-ers!<br>
<br>
Our reworker just opens the two torx screws, unclips the front cover<br>
and then does the Buzz-Rework under a microscope. Then, the front<br>
cover is clipped back and torx screws are replaced. This keeps rework<br>
cost low even in a high-wage country like Germany (which is still more<br>
than the 3 EUR we formally charge - Openmoko is sponsoring the rework).<br>
<br>
For opening the GSM shield you have to dismantle the whole PCB from<br>
the Freerunner plastics and then open the can. Doing the reverse<br>
direction means to put the power and aux buttons in place, make sure<br>
that the vibramotor and speaker give contact etc. and everything<br>
snaps back. This all sums to approx. 4 times as many minutes. That is<br>
the time that adds up in our calculation. So if we find a way to apply<br>
it without opening the can and dismantling the PCB, it will be the<br>
same speed.<br>
<br>
So it is the simplicity of the buzz-rework that made us start this<br>
adventure but more complex reworks are beyond our limits...<br>
<br>
<br>
Aother note to all who read this: the Buzz rework is only required if<br>
you have the Buzz problem. If your device does not, there is no need<br>
to rework. My personal estimate is that <5% of users have experienced<br>
it.<br>
<br>
And if you don't own a Freerunner yet, you don't necessarily have to<br>
wait for A7 devices. So purchasing an A6 is still a good bet.<br>
<font color="#888888"><br>
Nikolaus<br>
</font><div><div></div><div class="h5"><br>
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</div></div></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br>Warren Baird - Photographer and Digital Artist<br><a href="http://www.synergisticimages.ca">http://www.synergisticimages.ca</a><br>